Alleviation: An International Journal of Nutrition, Gender & Social Development, ISSN 2348-9340 , Volume 8, Number 8 (2021): 1-5
© Arya PG College (College with Potential for Excellence Status by UGC) & Business Press India Publication, Delhi
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A Study on Kalamkari of Andhra Pradesh

Sandeep Reen
Assistant Professor, Department of Home Science
Guru Nanak Girls College, Santpura, Yamunanagar (Haryana), India
Email: sandeepreen18@gmail.com

Abstract

Painting has been practised around the world from traditional times. Kalamkari is a form of folk art that originated in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh and involves hand-painting motifs on cloth with vegetable dyes. The term Kalamkari has been derived from the Persian words 'kalam,' meaning pen, and 'kari,' meaning handiwork. The present study looked into the art form of Kalamkari in Andhra Pradesh. It uncovered some previously undisclosed facts about it. According to the findings, Kalamkari's originality has changed in recent years due to many factors

Keywords: Andhra Pradesh, Folk Art, Kalamkari, Traditional Motifs.

Introduction Handicrafts have always played a vital role in human society, and these can be understood by people of many ethnicities. Human beings have used handicrafts as means of expressing their thoughts, feelings, and ideas since the dawn of time. Paintings on fabric have been practiced by humans for a long time, virtually since the first fabric was made. A variety of body-adornment methods were adapted to beautify the earliest fabrics.
It is a traditional style of hand painting used on cotton or silk using tamarind pens and natural dyes. The term Kalamkari has been derived from the Persian words 'kalam,' meaning pen, and 'kari,' meaning handiwork. To accomplish this work of art, 23 labor-intensive steps were needed, including dyeing, bleaching, hand painting, block printing, starching, and cleaning. Kalamkari themes include everything from flowers and peacocks to paisleys and characters from Hindu epics like the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. Today, the most popular output of this art style is kalamkari saris.
Kalamkari art depicts stories from Hindu myths like the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Pictures of Buddha and other works of Buddhist art can also be seen. Kalamkari patterns also feature floral and animal motifs as well as mehrab cloth designs. The main colours used in Kalamkari paintings are indigo, green, red, black, and mustard.
Origin and History
As an art form, it was found in the wealthy peak of Golconda sultanate, Hyderabad, in the middle Ages. The Mughals in the Coromandel and Golconda provinces used the term "Qualamkars" to designate to the craftspeople who practiced this art, hence the name "Kalamkari." The development of the Pedana Kalamkari craft in Krishna district, Andhra Pradesh, near Machilipatnam, was supported by the Mughals and the Golconda sultanate. As a result of its patronage, Persian art under Islamic rule had an impact on this art.
The art of Kalamkari has been practiced by numerous Telugu-speaking families in Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu for decades, and many of these families have earned a living from their creations. Kalamkari went through a period of decline before being rejuvenated in India and around the world for its craftsmanship. Since the 18th century, the United Kingdom has enjoyed clothing ornamentation.
Kalamkari was founded by Pitchuka Veera Subbaiah, who was a Pedana resident. He started the first commercial Kalamkari printing company in 1972 in Pedana. He produced and sold hand-block-printed Kalamkari.
Traditional Kalamkari art works reveal a profound cultural link that is reflected in paintings, murals, and handcrafted textiles. Kalamkari block-printing fabric was unearthed in Egyptian archaeological sites dating back to Roman times, where the delicate stroke of this old Indian skill can be traced. History has revealed that the Andhra Pradesh state of Coromandel is home to Kalamkari artefacts that date back to the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.
Types of Kalamkari

Both Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam Kalamkari are well-known for their intricate patterns and vibrant colours. Hand-printed motifs on finely carved blocks are common in Machilipatnam Kalamkari printing.
It is said that Srikalahasti style contains Kalamkari elements from Hindu mythology and epics. Srikalahasti style focuses on religious themes and scenes from the epics Ramayana and Mahabharata.
Machilipatnam style is notable for its portrayals of nature, especially plants and showing flora and fauna with floral designs in the background.
New designs for Kalamkari have emerged as a result of the many states where these are produced. Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh, two of India's most populous states, are hotbeds of Kalamkari design. Andhra Pradesh's Kalamkari style is inspired by the architecture of forts, palaces, and temples, as well as animal and bird themes, while Gujarat draws inspiration from mythical creatures.
Both styles ( Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam) have one thing in common – Organic colours that dry rapidly are used in both Kalamkari procedures, and the level of skill and quality hasn't waned over time. This is why Kalamkari is so popular. Incorporating these two styles into modern Kalamkari has yielded a piece with a plethora of unique elements.
Techniques of Kalamkari

Kalamkari is an old Indian art style that involves hand-painting using natural pigments and a tamarind pen. To accomplish this work of art, 23 labor-intensive steps were needed, including dyeing, bleaching, hand painting, block printing, starching, and cleaning. A colourful technique was invented more than 3000 years ago. It takes a total of 23 stages to make Kalamkari. From the natural bleaching and softening of the cloth through the creation of natural dyes, the hand painting, and the air drying and washing, more attention to detail is necessary throughout the process.
Cotton for Kalamkari is pretreated with a mixture of cow dung and bleach after soaking the fabric for many hours, the fabric colour becomes an off-white colour. The cotton cloth is then soaked in buffalo milk and Myrobalans. This technique prevents the natural dyes from spreading when painting the fabric. Buffalo milk fragrance is removed by running water on the fabric. For this reason, the fabric is washed and dried in the sun twenty times. When the fabric is ready for painting, sketches and designs are painted on it. Natural dyes are then used by the Kalamkari artists to colourize the artwork. Using a 'tamarind twig' as a pen, the Kalamkars make exquisite designs that incorporate minute details.
The basic colours used in Kalamkari painting are indigo, mustard, rust, black, and green. Natural colours are used in Kalamkari art, and they are extracted without the use of chemicals or artificial substances from natural sources. Iron filings and jaggery are two common ingredients in the black paint that artists use to outline their sketches. Yellow and mustard tones are created with pomegranate peels, while crimson hues are created using madder bark. In order to get green, you need to mix yellow and blue, and in order to get blue, mixture of mix indigo and blue is required. Due to the lengthy procedure involved in creating it, Kalamkari art has lost part of its lustre.
Colours and Dyes Used in Kalamkari
Rich earth tones are frequently used by Kalamkari artisans in their creations. Women are depicted in a yellow colour scheme, whereas Gods and demons are depicted in blue and red. The use of synthetic dyes is outlawed, thus all colours must be derived from natural sources.
Various roots, leaves, and mineral salts of iron, tin, copper, and alum are used to extract the colours for dyeing of clothes. Natural dyes can be made from a variety of materials, including cow dung, seeds, herbs, and crushed flowers. Among the substances used in the preparation of kalamkari are myrobalan and buffalo's milk. Myrobalan is an effective deodorizer for buffalo milk. Using Myrobalan's fixing agents, textile dyes or colours can be easily fixed while the fabric is being treated. While treating the fabric, alum is used in making natural dyes. Alum helps keep the colour of Kalamkari cloth stable.
Motifs and Themes of Kalamkari
There are many motifs in the art of Kalamkari that include flowers, paisleys, mythical characters from the Ramayana and Mahabharata as follows:

1) Tree of Life 1
Three trees grow out of a symmetrical pile of pebbles. Large birds and fern-like vegetation fill the composition's centre, with two peacocks flanking it on either side. The trunks and branches of two flowering trees, one on either side, wind upwards to envelop the area. The artist's precise use of brushstrokes brings colours like madder red, rose brown, green, and yellow together in a harmonious design.
2) Tree of Life 2
The core of this second tree of life is made up of a thickest bamboo, same like the core of the first. The fish pond appears to have been devoured by a massive cyclone. Peacocks with snakes in their beaks line both sides of the room. The wind doesn't seem to bother the lovely birds of paradise or any other kind.
3) Srikalahasti Motif
Surya nanagraha ashtadikpalika is a frequent architectural element in the Srikalahasti region (the sun chariot with the nine planets and eight directional deities).
4) Biblical Kalamkari
It is a temple-style representation of Christ's life, complete with majestic pillars and arches.
5) Kirti Mukha
It is a name given to the lion-like heads that represent Shiva that guard the gates to Indian temples Such themes were further followed by religious subjects like life of Buddha. It was also a stunning sight to see the wedding procession's assortment of horse and camel-drawn rigs.
Uses of Kalamkari
It is only in religious settings that Kalamkaris are displayed as wall hangings due to the inherent fragility of painted cloth. Two of the most well-known Hindu epics are the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. There were factories in Masulipatnam in Andhra Pradesh, where floral and geometric designs were produced to cater to the needs of both Muslim and European customers. These fabrics were generally "glazed" to increase their resistance to staining and fading.
Present Day Status of Kalamkari
Kalamkari art was once regarded as a sort of devotional art because of its portrayals of Indian deities. Kalamkari, which originated in the Mughal empire, is presently mainly made in Andhra Pradesh. Since Kalamkari is a complex art form requiring a lengthy procedure, it was beginning to lose its allure. Due to the development of high-quality machine looms and the widespread use of printed fabrics, Kalamkari art was on the verge of extinction. Printed Kalamkari, on the other hand, has become a popular fashion choice among today's young people. To keep this historic craft alive, Andhra Pradesh's artisan community received help from the fashion industry. Kalamkari sarees, dresses, and blouses are becoming increasingly popular. Many fashion designers have showcased the kalamkari sari on the runways, and it has garnered a great response.
The kalamkari print is not simply featured on traditional Indian textiles, but on contemporary items as well these days. People of all ages enjoy wearing trendy apparel with kalamkari print materials. Because of the vibrant motifs and the use of natural dyes, kalamkari is prized as a historical artefact. Kalamkari prints are also used by a variety of artists in the creation of home decor items and fabrics.
Conclusion
Traditional kalamkari textiles are manufactured by hand-painting or block-printing cotton in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana states of India. Aside from making clothes and home furnishings, these can be used for other purposes. An important element of our cultural heritage, it's more than just textiles. There is a good chance that this cloth contains one of the rarest types of multi-colored fabric. Any cotton fabric that is free hand painted or block printed is dyed with vegetable dyes. Drawing fine details and applying colours using a kalam (pen) are done in places where a block print is applied to the fabric.
In order to master the art of kalamkari, one needs a lot of perseverance and a lot of time. Purchased cotton cloth is cut into smaller pieces by mills and then sold to retailers for use in garments. As a centuries-old craft in India, Kalamkari produces beautiful hand-painted textiles. Some of the most popular subjects for these shows include sun chariots, important deities, and scenes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. Kalamkari saris are suitable for those who want a polished appearance. Cotton and silk sarees with Kalamkari motifs offer a distinctive appearance. A kalamkari design will bring out the best in you. Traditional sarees retain their importance in the fashion industry today. Due in part to how kalamkari's motifs have been mixed, this fabric appears rich and luxurious.
The kalamkari print is not simply featured on traditional Indian textiles, but on contemporary items as well these days. People of all ages enjoy wearing trendy apparel with kalamkari print materials.
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